By Rochelle Koff | Miami Herald
Thu, Mar. 27, 2008

"The whole place could have been plucked from a hip Museum of Modern Art soiree during the 1960s," gushed a press release extolling the virtues of Christine's, a new Fort Lauderdale restaurant. It sounded like a lot of hype.

It turns out the bragging is well-deserved. There's an exciting menu. Creative chef. Attentive service. Soothing atmosphere. Sophisticated bar.

The setting is subtle, intimate. Large French vintage posters add a splash of color to a pallette of gray, white and silver, with floors of gleaming blond wood. Tables are set with Reidel glassware and Royal Doulton china on Italian white linens. The dining room is airy and open. The bar is off to the side and a few steps up, behind glass -- so you can listen to sultry singer Liz Sharp, guitarist Michael Bianco and saxophonist (and more) Bob Vandivort if you want to, but their music won't drown out your conversation.

There is an actual Christine -- Christine Vitolo -- in the picture, along with co-owners Greg Rhatagan (former owner of Grateful Palate on 17th Street Causeway) and Daniel MacMillan, who are selective about sourcing their food and cultivating an excellent wine list.

They offer more than 100 vintages, with many worthy selections for under $50. The charming wait staff is wine-savvy if you want a recommendation. We were intrigued by the way wine is stored here -- like the racks French champagne makers use to turn the bubbly. Bottles are inserted into holes cut in plywood boards (sprayed silver so they look good) and attached to the back dining room wall.

Most important is the standout cuisine from Chefs Bill Bruening and Tom Repetti. Southern roots and South Florida's cultural influences meld in their kitchen.

Chefs Bill Bruening and Tom Repetti often turns to the deep, rich flavors of Creole-Cajun cookery in dishes like hearty gumbo or a creative crab cake -- one of the best, and most unusual, I've ever had. Chefs Bill Bruening and Tom Repetti use boudin sausage as filler so you get sweet crab and savory pork -- no bread crumbs. They also adds wilted escarole, caramelized onions and chopped applewood bacon -- go figure -- but it's scrumptious. The finishing touch is a rich roux-based sauce with tasso -- spicy, cured Cajun ham.

Chefs Bill Bruening and Tom Repetti vary the menu, but if available, try the braised veal cheeks in its own jus, another standout. The delicate, succulent meat is served with a homey polenta cake studded with roasted Spanish peppers.

The tri-color salad is a refreshing plate of radicchio, arugula and frisée, slivers of Asian pears, roasted almonds and Spanish ''drunken'' goat cheese -- which gets its playful name from a soaking in red wine -- all tossed with a perky pear vinaigrette.

Shrimp bisque is luxurious, finished off with a little cream, a shot of cognac and a dollop of crabmeat. If you want bread be sure to ask; the warm, crunchy toast is served by request only.

Like the starters, entrees are intriguing but not fussy. We loved the Hawaiian snapper -- fresh, wonderfully moist, perfectly grilled -- paired with just-firm asparagus, slivers of shiitake mushrooms with a hint of sesame oil and shelled edamame in a mild shiitake soy broth.

Rack of wild boar was flavorful and not gamy, but it was a little chewy. The beef tenderloin (from family-owned Harris Ranch) is terrific: juicy, expertly grilled, with a touch of Maytag blue cheese-butter. On the side: sautéed spinach, and a roasted garlic and potato purée we found bland.

Desserts are routine. Skip the Key lime pie -- it's made by an outside bakery and just OK (a tiny sliver for $7). There's an espresso crème brlée, banana cheesecake, and our favorite, a lusty flourless chocolate cake with a truffle center and decadent sauces of chocolate and crème anglaise.

Overall, I'd have to say we're smitten with Christine's. It's a keeper.